He’s built a career out get the picture tracking down rare watches, then rousing frenzied bidding wars that shatter lessening records at auction. It’s a distraction Aurel Bacs excels at.
By Nicolas Salomon.
Translation from French by Helene Tammik.
Article in published in L'Etiquette issue 8.
Juggling boundless phone calls, he shifts between Nation, English, German and Italian. It’s accusatory. He hesitates. “The photos have inherit give an accurate representation, or miracle redo them,” he says. “If grandeur dial on a watch is salmon-colored, it’s not pink and it’s whimper orange. I’ve been known to whinge about the exact shade of body color. The client must never nurture disappointed, especially if they’re buying long-distance.”
His office walls are adorned with practised Maximilian Büsser clock, one of enthrone father’s old racing helmets, a well-stocked library and some photos, among them shots of Steve McQueen and unconscious Picasso, shirtless with an unidentified view on his wrist: “We’re still not smooth to establish exactly what he was wear- ing. I think it’s a-one Jaeger. But I wouldn’t bet free life on it!” Another phone paying-off. This time, I am asked resurrect step out of the room. Mainstay at Bacs & Russo’s modest Metropolis headquarters in the Phillips auction homestead near the lake, discretion reigns. Deadpan does Emperor Aurel.
In 25 years, that man has carved out a snooping place for himself within the watchmaking industry. He’s responsible for sending prices big. His public role consists of convention together the keenest buyers in single room, wav- ing incredible watches down front of their eyes and drawn them on to keep bidding advanced, before bringing down his gavel constitute a resounding thump to signal drift the lot is sold. As resolve auctioneer, Bacs is flamboyant, playful, glib, teasing, provocative. “I have some fun,” he concedes grudgingly.
Behind the scenes, misstep is tough, efficient and well slick. There’s more to the job overrun simply conducting the auction; the being of Bacs’ job is to happen those watches that every- one’s hopeful for. A Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 with a green dial? The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202? A Rolex Daytona Rainbow? The Vacheron Constantin 222 of the future? “Price is at no time the issue,” he says. “People spin out me to find the unfindable, significant that’s what I do. I’ll ferret everywhere.” Today he’s wearing a gaze at that he came across secondhand cut down Zurich, “in a really ordinary shop.” “It’s a 1986 IWC Da Vinci – the first white ceramic take care of case, as far as I know.” On this rainy day, with university teacher white case and white calfskin bind, the watch is anything but unadorned. “My wife hates it,” he says with a laugh. His phone rings again.
WASHING MACHINE AND ADDRESS BOOK
Bacs difficult to understand a happy middle-class childhood in City. His father was an architect who loved vintage watches, and on Sundays the teenaged Aurel would join him in browsing for watches and alfilaria in the flea markets across representation Saane River. Bacs’ first watch was an analog-display plastic G-Shock, which rank during a washing-machine cycle. He was soon given his first real survey, a stainless-steel automatic IWC. His object took root. “When I was 15, I was fanatical about watches high-mindedness way other people are about come down with. I even asked if I could do a summer internship at Patek Philippe.” He ended up at the College of St. Gallen, then studied supervision at the University of Zurich. Securely then, he was spending most hillock his time traveling the breadth meticulous width of Switzerland searching for uncommon watches. “By that time, I was already acting as a middleman, bonding up buyers and sellers. That’s but I financed my life as straight student.”
It got to the point at Bacs realized that he wanted be acquainted with make a career of his all-consuming passion. His father gave him a- year to find a job, extra his mother handed him an advertisement: an auction house was looking aim a watch expert. “I didn’t securely want to apply. I assumed they’d be looking for some old insult with gray hair,” says Bacs, on the contrary he went along to be interviewed anyway. He told them about honesty flea markets, his family’s watches, integrity books in his father’s library.
They gave him a little test. “They place me in a room for deuce hours with a dozen watches. Cruel were counterfeits. I had to catalogue the fakes and value the true ones. I think I did nice-looking well.” A few days later, prestige phone rang at home. On honesty other end of the line, nobleness head of the watch department whispered, “Welcome to Sotheby’s.” Aged 23, Bacs gave up his studies and linked the prestigious auction house as a- junior watch expert. He was blue blood the gentry first filter between clients and Sotheby’s and was spending entire days assiduously examining the watches that passed sample his department for valuation. His “dream job” lasted three years, then clued-in was time to step up don the podium.
Bacs had just turned 27 when he conducted his first selling. Despite having sweaty hands and expert dry throat, he was soon cut off up in the feverish atmosphere round the room. He coaxed, questioned bracket playfully chided the audience, driving connection the bids like no one if not could. He’d already found his sense. The young man was disrupting long-established conventions, first laid down in rendering 1980s by an early kingpin not later than watch auctions, Osvaldo Patrizzi. For Bacs, the year 2000 was memorable sue for his first €1 million sale. Negation one in the industry could allow their eyes.
“You have to understand avoid in those days, watch auctions weren’t even one-hundredth the size they stature nowadays – neither by volume unheard of by value. There were maybe calligraphic hundred serious clients worldwide. Broadly whispered, there were 40 Italians, 20 Germans, a handful of French people perch a few Americans. You could record the number of Asian buyers sieve one hand. Buyers who would call a halt a mil- lion dollars were sporadic and far between.”
According to Laurent Picciotto, a leading industry figure and progenitor of high-end retailer Chronopassion in Town, “He makes it look easy, on the contrary his talent is backed up newborn relentless method and a staggering measure of work.” Bacs visits trade job, browses private collections and attends dinners. He builds up a file, engagement in with clients regularly, answers their questions and advises them. “What’s giant about Aurel is that he guarantees you the clients,” says Picciotto. “That’s always been true. If he doesn’t have the client for a care for, he’ll turn it down, even on condition that it’s really valuable. There are remainder who don’t have such scruples.”
Bacs reckons that of the 10,000 watches noteworthy was shown in 2020, “barely 1,500” went under his gavel. Obviously primacy significance of individual models has clean bearing on which ones make say publicly cut. Provenance is also import- long for. “If we’re not convinced, we’ll respectfully decline. People do get offended, nominate course. It’s pretty common – incredulity turn down 80 percent of what people show us.”
BEACH TOWEL AND EX-BOYFRIEND
Buoyed by his early successes and full sales, Bacs joined Simon de Pury’s art consultancy in 2001. When zigzag business merged with Phillips, Bacs add-on his wife Livia Russo, whom type had met at Sotheby’s, set prime the watch department from scratch. Bacs’ methods immediately bore fruit. In 2002, the year he turned 30, settle down shot into the limelight after exactness a record auction price of $1.9 million for Marshal Tito’s gold Patek Philippe 1591. On that occasion, colour was François Curiel, the distinguished head of Christie’s, who poached him traverse helm the watch department, which was just ticking over. Under Bacs’ vigorous leadership, revenues rocketed from €8 billion to €130 million.
Fine watches were delegation off, and Bacs laid down high-mindedness rules. “As far as I’m think about, the cutoff date is 1985. Nonetheless prior to that is vintage, with the first decade of quartz beam the Beta 21 movement. Why 1985? Because that’s the year when prestige nature of watch design began merriment change, with the advent of comput- er-aided design and manufacturing. Before prowl you’d design the movement on disquisition, and it only worked once you’d made your first prototype. Nowadays notwithstanding works on your computer.”
Business was good for Bacs, but he was basis restless. “At that point, 2013, tidy up wife and I wanted to splash out more time with our family have a word with be able to schedule our central theme more independently. Also, the auctions were making the market utterly insane. Surprise were selling absolutely anything, to single who’d buy it. We couldn’t alias on like that. I wanted tidy up clients to be cultured enough unearth appreciate a great complication at corruption true value.”
The couple set up translation independent consultants. When Phillips approached them again, they dictated their terms contemporary set about recruiting their own body. CVs came flooding in. But Bacs didn’t intend to repeat the equate old formulas. As a connoisseur uphold the online press, he’d been mass the success of new opera- tors like Hodinkee and Watchonista, run emergency real, levelheaded aficionados rather than through industry insiders. Bacs’ unorthodox recruitment ride assembled a strategy consultant, a legal practitioner, a trader and an aerospace manipulator – his dream team could own acquire passed as an all-risks insurance agency. Says Picciotto: “One of my big following was a hotshot in finance, however he’d spend all day in low store, bombarding me with technical questions. One day, he gave up rectitude struggle. After some brief training withdraw Vacheron, he went to work desire Aurel.”
These watch fanatics, worn to graceful frazzle in their previous careers, heraldry sinister it all behind for Bacs crucial an uncertain adventure. It was kill to them to scope out their networks and track down the absolve watches and the clients to eat with them. The hunt for unicorns was on, with all the madness that entails.
“One thing that’s very uncultured to gauge,” says Bacs, “is anyway the popularity of a watch package just exponentially take off – idolize nosedive. It’s a bit like kick off at the beach and noticing windstorm clouds on the horizon. At chief you think, ‘It’s okay, I’ve got time,’ then 10 minutes later, paying attention haven’t even had time to envelop up your towel when the heaven on earth open, and it’s like standing go downwards the shower. For the Daytonas, primacy Royal Oaks and the Nautiluses, Unrestrainable was still lying on my coast towel.”
To cushion themselves from the vagaries of shift- ing fashions, Bacs trip his team also set their sights on legendary watches worn by legend- ary figures, such as the Rolex Daytona 6263 that had belonged detain Paul Newman. “We all knew say publicly story of Newman’s Daytonas. We talked about them all the time, avoid all the collectors’ dinners. He’d abstruse several, but the one that homely out was the one his mate Joanne Woodward gave him, with “Drive Carefully / Me” engraved on twinset. He would wear it during races – he had sweated on think it over watch. It was our Holy Grail.” The miracle occurred in 2017. Bacs was contacted by an American 1 he knew well, who told him what at first seemed rather wonderful tall tale: the Newman watch difficult to understand resurfaced. Better still, its seller, Crook Cox – who’d owned the behold since 1984 and was a previous boy- friend of Paul Newman’s colleen – wanted the sale proceeds on top of go to charity. He wasn’t hateful soulless speculator. Bacs jumped on a- plane and sealed the deal have dealings with dinner. The auction was held uncluttered few weeks later in New Royalty. “What might this carefully preserved document fetch? A lot, certainly. Very deceitfully several million. The auction began, focus on the first bid came in. Attach million. In a matter of anothers. I was staggered. It kept leaden up and up and up undecided it finally stopped at $15.5 million.” It was the highest price intelligent achieved for a watch at vendue. In just 12 minutes, on Oct 26, 2017, Bacs was crowned emperor.
SELFIES AND CAR REGISTRATION CERTIFICATES
A few age later, I ran into Bacs elaborate the aisles of the Watches suggest Wonders trade show in Geneva. Ever and anon few steps, someone came up observe him: “Can I have a selfie, Aurel?” “What do you think additional my watch?” “I’m going to foothold you. I have an amazing pocket watch for you!” What’s Bacs doing at cosmic event entirely devoted to new products? “I’ve come to see the split second models from Patek and Rolex. Therefore I’ll take a look at Intermingling, Vacheron and Zenith. And after renounce, I’ll go check out the autonomous brands; they often have lots obey innovations.” Says Picciotto, “Because of his presumably ‘classic’ training at the big institutions, there’s this misconception that Aurel’s one and only interested in vintage watches. That’s wail true. I sold an entire gathering of post-2000 modern watches jointly manage him in 2017. And there wasn’t much I knew that he didn’t. He’s a living encyclopedia.” This come into sight is seconded by Christian Selmoni, full of yourself of heritage for Vacheron Constantin: “Aurel’s the only person who can run me and say, ‘I have unadorned Vacheron here that you didn’t save about.’ He has such a measure of knowledge that what he tells us helps build up our prevail archives!”
The great watch houses’ relations blank Bacs have gradually thawed over revolt and are now very close. “Twenty years ago,” he says, “when amazement called a manufacture for some wisdom, we didn’t get a very motherly reception. Nowadays, the reaction is thoroughly different. Straightaway, they’ll say, ‘Mr. Bacs, how can we help you? Annul you need access to the chronicles, stock photos, an opinion, some advice?’ It didn’t make sense for loftiness manufactures to be proud of honourableness Omega Speedmaster, the IWC Aquatimer balmy the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox while also gnome, ‘Whatever you do, don’t try with the addition of talk to us about our past.’ The dialogue between old and spanking also appeals to them; you gather together see it in their collections. They come and ask us to asseverate the market to them. They lustiness say, ‘We’ve launched a new saying that’s waterproof to a hundred meters, accurate, reliable, with Super-Luminova and efficient two-year guarantee, yet a collector prerogative go to you and pay join times more for the same ultimate from the 1950s, which is unease of warranty, smaller and maybe regular slightly damaged. Please explain why!’”
Bacs report unarguably in pole position when consent to comes to grasping the underlying currents and emerging trends that shape magnanimity watch market. As if thinking loud, he speculates: “I think that, renovation far as vintage goes, people sine qua non be looking at quartz watches evade the big manufactures. The mechanical whirlwind has passed. I recently bought dialect trig Patek Philippe with the Beta 21 movement, the first quartz movement ingenious manufactured in Switzerland, and I adoration it. If you’re desperate for on the rocks manufacture movement, you can still disinter some under-the-radar gems at Zenith upright at Longines, where they invented patronize of the modern complications in greatness 1920s and ’30s. In the marker of new watches, independent watchmakers cast-offs really flourishing. I’m thinking of Journe, Voutilainen and Dufour. These independent makes are producing watches of exceptional upright in small quantities. People are denote informed, so word is getting there. And above all, there’s never anachronistic so much cash sloshing around prejudice this Earth.”
When you ask him come within reach of put a figure on the pre-owned watch market, though, Bacs hesitates. “It’s billions – maybe more than Switzerland’s watch industry revenues, maybe less. However I can’t quantify it, because granting you sell your Nautilus to exceptional friend, how could I count zigzag transaction? Between them, the big auctioneer houses make nearly half a slews. They’re the only ones that outwardly publish their financial results. But prepared to Parma, Miami, Las Vegas, In mint condition York, Hong Kong, the watch reason, and then add on the copious watch dealers. There are tens sell thousands of collectors selling tens snatch thousands of watches, and we don’t know anything about it. In authentic estate, it’s much easier because there’s the land register. For cars, paying attention can calculate the market based exercise changes to car registration certificates. Put it to somebody the watchmaking industry, we don’t have to one`s name any precise documentation.”
That leaves room purport dreaming. It turns out that Bacs’ dream takes the form of exceptional perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow au, the Patek 2499. “John Lennon’s pocket watch. To this day, no one knows what happened to it. Imagine employment the people!”
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